Repairing a Rusted, Broken Frame Fixing a rusted,brokenframe:One approach to dealing with a common problemUpwards of 60 years worth of harduseand exposure to the weather has taken it's toll on many an MB or GPWframe.The frame on MB392034 had rusted under the battery tray and broke whereit was weakened. A previous owner poorly welded some repairplateson either side of the frame, but this all had to be repairedproperly.There is more than one method to do this, but I have outlined below the(typical) steps taken by me in my current restoration. You mayusethese steps as a guideline and adapt the techniques to your particularframe. If you notice errors or improvements to the process Iwouldappreciate your input by email.Thanks - Ren BernierStep One - Evaluate the Damage - yikes!The previous owner's repair plates were attached toeitherside of the frame below the battery trayThe ugly repair plates and need tobe removed.Step Two - Remove Extraneous Pieces that areWeldedto the FrameUsing a grinder, cut-off wheel and / or cutting torch,carefully remove and non-original metal pieces. Then sandblastthearea to afford a careful inspection for cracks, etc.Removing the repair plates revealed that the framehadrusted through where the front crossmember attachedStep Three - Remove Rusted, Broken Face of theFrameUsing a grinder, cut-off wheel and hacksaw, carefullyremove the rust-damaged metal pieces.

1. Subframe

Subframe

This allows access to theinnersurface of the frame.Opening the frame disclosed a major misalignment ofthebroken parts.Step Four - Re-align The frame and Weld in RepairPieceson the Inside of the FrameBy working inside the frame, the repairs will not bevisible when done. I welded the crack and added some strengtheninggussetsover the repair. At this time I also welded in place a nut toacceptthe button-head socket cap screws that will replace the blind rivetholdingthe battery tray in place.Step Five - Weld in Repair Piece on the BottomRailof the FrameFabricate a repair piece for the bottom frame rail andweld this in place. Be careful to secure the frame horn inpositionduring this process.Step Six - Cut a Cardboard Template of the PatchNeededUsing an xacto knife, trim the cardboard to aperfectfit to replace the cut-out area.I included on the template the holes for the fenderbracebolts, the slots for the front cross-tube to stick through, and theventhole for the cross tube. Be sure to fit the template in the framehole and triple check the fit.Step Seven - Transferring the Template Image totheNew MetalLay the template on the stock metal and spray withquickdrying paint. When you lift off the template, it's image isoutlinedon the steel and easily cut out. The bolt holes and slots alsoshowthis way.Step Eight- Cut PatchLift the template off and cut the patch.

I usea hand-held jigsaw with a metal cutting blade for this. Drill theholes and slots as indicated by the template.

Be sure toweldnuts to the back of the patch to accept the fender brace boltsnow!Step Nine - Apply Your Favorite Rustproofing totheInside of the FrameNow is the time, while you can reach these areas.I brushed on a little red oxide primer. Notice the repro bumperandgusset used to maintain alignment of the frame during repair.Step Ten - Weld in the PatchThe patch is MIG welded in place, now things start tolook better!My welding is not pretty, but it is strong!Thetwo vertical beads on either side of the hole capture the crosstube asthe original did.The two nuts welded to the inside of the patchprovidethe threaded holes for the fender brace bolts.Step Eleven - Cosmetic WorkThe area gets ground smooth. I use a littlefillerto hide grinder marks and then sand and prime the area.The Button head socket cap screw 'Rivets' are usedtoinstall a battery tray salvaged from another frame.Step Twelve - Finish PaintOh Yeah!For more related images, go to the MBImage IndexGood Luck!

Removing broken bolts and studs is never a fun job and can take more time then you think. Here are some ideas that might make the job easier. It never fails! Just when you think you have got the whole job taken apart and everything is under control.

You either twist off a nut, break or round off a screw, or strip out the threads entirely.Broken-This can often be a frustrating time-waster with no quick fix available. More often than not, removing the broken piece and/or repairing the broken threads can take longer than all the whole job itself. One often overlooked method of removing broken screws and bolts, and perhaps the best first choice, is the left hand twist drill bit. These are the same as regular high speed drill bits except the cutting action is in a counter-clockwise direction —the same way fasteners are removed.Since you will likely have to drill a pilot hole at this point anyway, if you use a left hand drill bit, in many cases the drilling process results in removal because you are turning and biting into the stuck fastener in the same direction as removal, while applying downward pressure.

The Use Of HeatOften a last resort, the application of heat to a stubborn, immovable fastener can be the catalyst for success. As heat is rapidly applied, it excites the molecules in the metals causing expansion. This expansion can take place at different temperatures and rates for different metals,One of the most common examples is the heating of cast iron manifolds to remove stubborn steel studs. Being dissimilar in structure, the cast iron heats and expands at a rate greater than the steel fastener, which allows a space to form between the two and facilitates easier removal. The added use of penetrating fluids that can withstand high temperatures enhances the chances for success.

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